"Don't Cry for Me"....Buenos Aires, Argentina

Independence Square

Buenos Aires, capital of Argentina located on the Rio de La Plata...filled with beautiful parks, French and Italian architecture, tall skyscrapers, theater, tango, gauchos (skilled horseman and a National symbol of Argentina) and passionate people. Its port is in the middle of messy construction, like Boston's Big Dig. Although people are being encouraged to use buses and trains, people are reluctant to give up their cars, and traffic is horrendous.

Our excellent tour guide, Maxi, said life here is

 a continuous rollercoaster

Slums by Train Yard

of extreme ups and downs. Yet, Argentines have learned to take all this in stride, because "what else can we do?" In the early 1900s, Argentina had been one of the wealthiest nations, only to collapse until the next high. The last downward spiral was in 2001 when the public came out in full force with pots and pans, clanging them loudly in front of the presidential palace. Things were in such disarray that President Fernando de la Rua resigned and was evacuated by helicopter.  Within the next two weeks, Argentina had five acting presidents.

Things have improved and people are hopeful, even with the 57% interest rate charged by banks. (money in the bank can earn 37%) But the peso that in 2000 was 1:1 with the dollar is now down to 1:35,  and the wise keep no pesos in the bank, buying dollars instead or if able, property.

Caminito...settled by Italian immigrants
 and now a tourist area

Typical Homes in LaBoca

La Boca, the area around the abandoned old port, had been settled by Italians, the city's early settlers, and is now a neighborhood (barrio) of the working poor. Its Caminito Street with colorful shops, taverns, and tango has become a popular tourist attraction. Surrounding this small, lively area are homes of the working poor, most with colorful corrugated zinc/iron walls.

Soccer is big and the 75,000 capacity stadiums are filled. Maxi says people come not so much for the actual game, as for the party in the stands. The whole crowd jumps up and down, singing, such that it is impossible to hear your neighbor. Alcohol is not allowed in the stadium, so everyone comes drunk.  Soccer is the most important thing in life after your mother says Maxi. The sports one plays depends on one's socioeconomic class. The average Argentine loves soccer,  children of a higher class play rugby, but the real elite play tennis and polo. All Argentines are loyal to their own group and dislike the other. These groups can be different soccer teams, different neighborhoods, city people vs suburbia, you name it, they take a side...never wishywashy. This is part of their Italian blood. Not only not wishywashy, but they feel they have the best of everything...best beef, best Malbeck wine, best opera house, best soccer player, widest river, widest street. They are passionate and will yell and scream at each other for 10 minutes and then suddenly become best of friends.

Church by La Recoleta Cemetary

Speaking of Argentina's passion, how can one not think of Eva Peron, who as she grew in prominence, took on the name Evita,  little Eva, so as not to overshadow her husband, Juan Peron, el Presidente de la Argentina. One of our guest lecturers, a neurosurgeon from Yale, presented his findings that Eva Peron actually had a lobotomy, partly to control her cervical cancer pain, but mostly to stop her calls to overthrow the government. After the surgery, she was placid and refused to eat, dying several weeks later.

Recoleta Cemetery

We visited the elite
La Recoleta barrio, to see Eva Paron's burial site in its famous cemetery. All the tombs, owned by individual families, are above ground. Caskets are put inside, many times with glass doors. Some of the lesser family member's caskets are put in the basement of the tomb.

After a very long and complicated journey, Eva Peron's embalmed body was finally placed in the Duarte Family tomb. Seven of the eight plaques on the front wall of the tomb are about her, making one think the government has taken over the yearly payments for this family tomb.
She is still well loved by Argentines, for her fight for the common man and her romantic life with Juan.

Casa Rosada, the government house where Eva Peron
 addressed her supporters from the Balcony...
and where people clanged their pots and pans

Our tour continued through Buenos Aires proper and then into the suburbs to the delta area of the Parana River with its 5000 islands. Sediment continually coming down from the mountains creates new islands which are sold by the government. The island's banks are fortified with rock, stone or metal walls and houses built up on stilts. All supplies come by boat including building supplies, propane for stoves and heat, and even groceries. Houses ranged from run-down shacks to nice homes, and even a huge mansion. The nicer homes were often second homes. Houses had to be painted frequently because of the mold problems and many were for sale since island life is not easy. It was raining the day we visited, with a few lightning bolts and thunderclaps while on the river, just to make the boat ride interesting.

Mansion

Small Home with Typical Dock

Boats Bring Children to this Primary School

At sunset, we sat on the deck, enjoying another five-star meal, this time highlighting Argentine cuisine.... melt in our mouth steak, chorizo on a warm baguette with chimichurri sauce, roasted veggies, celery chips, empanadas and so much more....

And as we sailed away, having learned a little bit of the people and the country.....

Like Evita, "Argentina...we won't keep (y)our distance"...