Pumba Game Reserve…Port Elizabeth South Africa

Pumba Game Reserve

Early in the morning, the ship stopped its rocking and we knew we were in port, this time Port Elizabeth. There were many tours to choose from…elephant reserves, ostrich farms, beer tasting, sand dune sliding, or river cruises… but we were in Africa and it was time for a safari.  So off we went to the Pumba Game Reserve to see the "Big 5", or at least some of them. By the way, the Big 5 are Lions, Rhinos, Elephants, Buffalos, and Leopards.
After an easy drive through town during rush hour, we were in the countryside which this time was mainly open flatlands. China has major car and truck factories here. We also passed several huge newly constructed buildings near the area where the new port is going in that is also Chinese owned. They even bring in their own workers from China to build them. We don’t understand what’s in it for South Africa.

Along the coastline were huge sand dunes and soon the land turned to dry rolling hills. We were told they have had four years of drought. Many years ago, the prickly pear cactus was introduced to the pastures for food during these dry spells and has taken over many areas. To the elephants, they are a culinary delight after they trample them to dislodge the spines.

After rolling into the Pumba Game Reserve, we hopped into 4 wheelers, ten to a jeep. The seats had good views and were surprisingly comfortable, even with the rugged path we bumped and twisted along. The reserve was formed when 26 cattle and pineapple farms no longer were profitable, so pooled together to make the reserve. Animals were brought in and have been left in a natural state, their numbers equilibrating with the leopards’ and lions’ meals. The elephants themselves have no predators, the young being protected by the adults. The only animals thinned out by giving to another reserve are the adult male lions since they would normally move away from the lion king’s territory and start their own pride. 

Adult Male Enjoying his Meal
While Others Watch Hungrily

The highlight was watching the adult male lion feasting on a wildebeest. One of the female lions had brought it down yesterday, and the king lion will feast on the carcass until it is full. Only then will the other two adult females and the four young lions be allowed to eat. As we watched, one of the females got a little too close to the food, and the king suddenly jumped up and roared, at which the rest of the pride scattered, then returned to watch hungrily…but this time a few more feet away.

Adult Male Upset with his Pride Getting too Close

We did not see any leopards since they move very stealthily and mainly just at night. The water buffalo were also missing since they are up in the hills this time of year. But giraffes, elephants, warthogs, zebras, impalas and wildebeests were easily seen, many times within 50 feet of the jeep. The driver would stop to allow us to observe and take pictures. We were very lucky to see so many animals since they usually hide on cool windy days like today.

Waterhog Digging for Roots...When
Running, its Tail  Straight Up

Of concern are the poachers who are now after rhino horns that in China are an aphrodisiac. One horn can bring in millions of dollars. The guides no longer mention a rhino's location on their walkie talkies since poachers hack in. This picture was taken by a friend since we didn't see any rhinos.

A Delicious Lunch at the Reserve

At noon, we feasted on a wonderful buffet with five different types of meat cooked in a brick oven, rice, potatoes, fruit, salad, and desserts, along with sodas, wines and beer.  It easily competed with our ship’s fantastic food in a more beautiful setting, small tables among bushes and small trees.

One more trip around parts of the reserve, and we were off to the ship, arriving just in time to take the shuttle bus across the upscale parts of this port city to the Sun Resort and Casino, where we scurried around for 15 minutes before returning on the last shuttle to the ship. As always...we wanted more time.

Donkin Reserve...City Park
with Bay Views

City Hall

Casino on the Beach...Felt and Looked Like Disneyworld

East London, South Africa

After over three months living with just seniors, while Mark stayed on the ship, I couldn't wait to see children again, this time at a daycare in an East London township. Our group of nine was welcomed by the soft-spoken principal who had started the small center 25 years ago. It's open from 7AM-6PM Monday-Friday. We moved from classroom to classroom charmed by the children who sang songs for us in Xhosa and English. Both languages are spoken in the school and in homes. We couldn’t hear the click in the Xhosa songs since that is developed and gets louder with age.

One Class at Zamani Day Care

Although not a Christian school, some songs were about Jesus. Others were about sharing the love which we truly felt as they all “loved on us” with hugs, smiles, kisses, and the thumb flick which took a minute to understand.


At first, I just thought they were giving us a thumbs up, but when she did it back, they all started touching their thumb to mine. Our guide explained that this quick touch of thumbs is the Xhosa hello and goodbye.

Saying Goodbye with Hugs and Touching Thumbs

Preparing to Sing for Us

The principal was showing us the beans and samp being prepared for lunch when she dropped the bag and raced to the front of the school. We assumed a student had been hurt. After several minutes we walked to the front yard where a crowd had gathered and police vans were parked along the road investigating a crime scene…our bus. While we were in the school, two men had pulled a gun on our driver, taken his phone and money and then gone through the two backpacks on the bus. I wasn’t worried about the money, but I was hoping they didn’t take my passport. Two hours later when I was allowed on the bus to check, the money was gone, but my passport was thankfully there! The general manager of Viking and the shore excursion manager soon arrived in another bus to escort us back to the ship although no one was ever in any danger. My heart broke for the principal who clung to me for a good five minutes repeating,” I’m so sorry…I’m just so sorry.” She depends on these tours to help fund the school since many parents can’t afford to pay the $10/week fee. Hopefully, they will continue and not stop
because of this one incident. The rest of the township tour
was canceled, and we were driven directly back to the ship.

The Police and Small Crowd outside the School After our Bus was Robbed

Homes and Business in the Township

Typical Car Wash

That afternoon we drove through the city of East London, past the old colonial city hall to the East London museum.

Parts of East London were Very Well Off...City Hall

While the rest of the group learned about extinct fish… I wandered up to the second-floor exhibits where Avide, my guide that morning explained more about the Xhosa people and customs. A few facts…Xhosa people make up almost 20% of SA’s population, second to Zulu. They live mostly in the Eastern and Western Cape of South Africa in townships. During apartheid, the males were only allowed to work in the mines and the effects of apartheid can still be seen in the poverty of those living in the townships like we had visited that morning. Xhosa people traditionally worship their ancestors and believe in a creator, yet many are Christians due to the work of the missionaries. Like the Navajo people, these religions mix. (80% of South Africa are Christian) They traditionally lived in beehive-shaped huts which still can be seen near modern homes on the hillsides. President Nelson Mandela belonged to this ethnic group. Their language has unique clicks for letters C, X, and Q. It’s amazing!

Xhosa Marriage Clothing on the Left

Interesting to me was a clothing custom still followed today. As with the Zulu people, the groom pays a dowry to show respect to the bride’s family. This price is negotiated and can be money, cows,(traditionally the Xhosa people were herders) or even washing machines. Our guide’s husband had paid in cash, the cost of two cows. When the bride first enters the home of her husband’s family, she is redressed in a certain headscarf to differentiate herself from single women…a long skirt with an apron which symbolizes that she will cover problems and not share them with anyone outside the family, and a cape. After six months she becomes a trusted and accepted member of the family and again wears her regular clothing.

Coelacanth Fish

While Carol was engrossed in tribal customs, I continued on the tour by the museum guide. The museum had several prize specimens.  The main one was the Coelacanth fish. This species, that can be found in fossils dating back 400 million years, was felt to be extinct until one was pulled in by a local fisherman in 1938. Since then 100 others have been found in other parts of the world, some of them monitored to learn their habits. They have several unusual features worth commenting on. One is unusually hard scales that act like the armor of some dinosaurs.  Another is the pectoral fins that look like subby arms with elbows and used in propelling forward with alternate fin stroking. The swim bladder that most fish have filled with air to allow them to stay at the same depth, are filled instead with fat, that actually helps keep them righted.  And 90% of the brain cavity is filled with fat. Truly an odd specimen.

Opah Warm Blooded Fish

The other interesting fish on display was the Opah fish, which is the only warm-blooded fish known to man.  Along with fish, the museum boasted of the only known Dodo egg and had a life-size display of a dodo bird, created after reviewing all articles and pictures in the archives. 

Dodo Bird and Egg

We drove past beautiful homes on the way to East London’s waterfront where we saw the German immigrant statue. Many Germans had come to SA back in the 1600s. Then in the late 1800s, close to 4000 Germans farmers, immigrated to East London to supply provisions needed to restock ships of the Dutch East India Company. This explains the many towns with German names in the region.

Coastline in Front of  Statues and Mosaics to German Immigrants

German Immigrant
Statue at Waterfront

Durban, South Africa

        

Durban Waterfront with Tugs

After numerous lectures on South Africa we finally made it to our first port of call, Durban. We had learned of Apartheid, Mandela, gold and diamond mines, the "Big 5", Zulus and Bantus. In some ways, it was a little intimidating, but we were ready and excited.

Shaka World

We pulled into port at 5PM so had an evening to explore before touring the next day. As with many other places we have visited, it was a working port so walking into town was impossible...dangerous traffic wise and people wise we were warned, so we took the ship’s shuttle to ShakaWorld.

Rickshaws Ready to Carry Tourists Along Promenade

Promenade with Boys Playing Soccer and Adults in Exercise Class...
Others just out for an Evening Stroll

Painted and Carved Ostrich Eggs

ShakaWorld, named after a Zulu King Shaka was a water park at one end of the wide brick promenade along a mile of beautiful sandy beaches. The park itself was closed for the night, but several of its restaurants and shops were still open and the walk through the shops, and then along the mile-long walk called the Golden Mile was busy with families, groups of teens, and an occasional tourist mainly from our ship. There was an exercise class and kids playing soccer on the wide brick path. After walking a half mile we passed a closed restaurant/bathroom building, and someone yelled out that walking here was dangerous. With that, Mark decided it was time to get back to the ship since we were still getting our bearings as to how to navigate this city.

Oribi Gorge

We were up bright and early the next morning, excited to get out to the countryside to hike the Oribi Gorge. It didn't take long to see that our guide was in the wrong business. He had lived through the end of apartheid, and expressed his sadness for losing what had been a wonderful life for “everyone” back then, when “everyone was happy and there was no crime”. Other than this, he gave almost no information during the two-hour drive but it was interesting seeing the countryside with many townships and then the beach and other wealthy communities so close together.

Homes of the poor...

...and rich dotted the Landscape

Eucalyptus Logs for Oil...Endless Sugar Cane Fields 

We drove west into a sea of sugar cane fields. Machines now do the work that first slaves, then the Bantus, and when they refused, indentured servants once did. The indentured servants were brought over from India. Many made enough money to start their own businesses and as a group now are doing very well living in their own neighborhoods of beautiful houses in the suburbs. The vast majority of whites also live out of town, the homes of both groups protected by 8-foot tall brick walls with electric fences on top, many with military type barbed wire encircling these twice. The sugar cane fields are slowly being replaced by Eucalyptus trees, harvested for their oils and wood, and also by fruit and Macadamia nut trees which we passed along the way.

When we arrived at Oribi Gorge, they weren’t expecting our group of 15. After 30 minutes of confusion, we drove back to another area which was not the right place either. After 30 more minutes of confusion, our group decided to stay and take a hike offered here at what seemed like a fun park, not the National Park we were expecting, but better than nothing.

Scary!

In groups of six, we crossed the 100-yard suspension bridge, which swung and tilted with each step, 1300 feet above the river gorge.  Mark did his best not to look down. One of the workers demonstrated the free fall pendulum type drop off the edge, but none of us took him up on trying it ourselves.

Adventuresome Couple at Hanging Rock

We then walked a rugged trail along the sandstone cliffs to the Hanging Rock and then back again. The hike was fun, and the scenery amazing. It was our first real mix up, on a Viking tour. Surprisingly, our whole group seemed to take it in stride although there must have been complaints since that evening we got a letter of apology from the manager along with a full refund...totally unnecessary. We had an incompetent guide, a shorter hike, and no lunch, but it was good for us to skip a meal, and we had had a perfectly wonderful day.

Loads of Large Anthills

Stone Face
Reminiscent of
New Hamshire's
Old Man of the
Mountain

WaterFall Next to Where one Could Bungee Jump

Oribi Lodge Hotel Patio...Closed for Lunch

Pier with Restaurant by Shaka World 

Upon our return, we went right back to the beach promenade. It was a beautiful Sunday and the beach was busy. Carol happily swam although the power and frequency of the wave action were a bit intimidating. The wind dried her off as we walked the promenade again with the setting sun.

Ceremony at the Beach

We love this promenade so alive with families swimming, fishing, biking, and just enjoying the night. Once again, it was 99.9% black or Indian, with only a few whites, probably tourists. We speculated that the whites, 15% of Durban, must live outside the city.

Water Park for Children

Garden Along Promenade

Skate Park

We walked past the huge children's waterpark and skateboard park and garden and were lured over to a big fenced in area by party music. Over the fence were thousands of people dressed in white from head to toe at what we thought must be a wedding. Later when we asked two women in white on the promenade, they said it was "The Great White Dinner". People bring their own food and friends, and wine, dine and dance the night away in a different, but elegant setting once a year. Did I mention we LOVE this place?!

Great White Dinner

The following day we headed to Zulu country...The Valley of a Thousand Hills. This time the bus took us straight north of Durban passing a HUGE mall, townships and mansions, beautiful farm fields, and highway vendors selling mostly avocadoes.

Many Homes had Traditional Zulu Round 
Houses ...Similar to the Navajo Hogans

Farm Shifting from Sugar Cane to Macadamia Nuts

Workers Weeding Sugar Cane
Harvested by Machinery

Luxurious Seaside Resorts

               

Selling Avocados along the Highway

                     
                          

Simpler Homes of Hardworking People Walking to Town

Zulu Dance Depicting Courtship and Wedding...
Valley of Thousand Hills Behind

Phelzulu Safari Park had several moats with Nile Crocodiles, the largest and most common in Africa as well as tortoises and snakes and many Zulu beehive huts.

One way to cool off

Life of a tortoise

Zulu dancers put on a show depicting the courtship and marriage of a Zulu couple, one scene demonstrating the man asking the prophet to cast the bones to see if this marriage was a wise move. (Some passengers complained it was similar to the ship’s Zulu dancers so demanded their money back.) We enjoyed the show impressed with the high kicks of the dance, loved our British tea and scones, and had a great conversation with one man about his culture. He explained the Zulus have a king and under the king nine chiefs. When a man marries, he goes to the king and asks for land. He is granted permission to build a house if the land he chooses has not already been claimed. He can't claim land before marriage. Polygamy is still practiced. Zulu is one of the 11 official languages of South Africa. He demonstrated the different clicks made with the tongue for letters K, and Q. It is an amazing language.

Again we enjoyed the sights on the way home...industrial areas including an enormous Toyota plant and Sugar Mill and the old city center. Most businesses and offices have moved to a northern part of Durban.

Sugar Warehouse Loading Ocean Vessels

Toyota's Huge Factory

Local Market under Freeway

The City Center...Most Businesses
have moved to the   Northern
 part of the city

Where Gandhi Lived and
Worked as a Lawyer

We drove along the waterfront down the oldest avenue in Durban called the Victoria Embarkment, or the Esplanade, lined with Victorian and art deco buildings, now unsafe to walk with addicts looking for drug money. South Africa faces terrible poverty, drugs, aids, and immigration problems with people coming from Mozambique and other north African countries in search of employment...so many of the issues we face in the US... yet more difficult with serious government corruption.

Evening Performance on Board the Sun by Zulu Dancers