Sailing with the Sun: Lessons in Being Privileged...Port Dauphin, Madagascar

Recently Mozambique and Madagascar experienced a terrible cyclone killing hundreds and displacing thousands. The area we were in wasn’t affected, but Viking packed up and gave $50,000 worth of linens, food, and other supplies to the island’s Red Cross relief effort. These were presented by Viking’s upper management to the mayor and other officials of Fort Dauphin.

After many disappointing evaluations of Mauritius from passengers, our cruise director Heather prepared us at the port talk to be ready for a little inconvenience in Madagascar, reminding us that it is the 9th poorest country in the world with most people making less than $1 a day. Our buses would have tight seats and no air conditioning. Guides may not speak perfect English. The roads would be bumpy, and bathrooms primitive if available. Things might not run smoothly…a necessary lecture for Viking passengers.

Madagascar is the 9th Poorest Nation in the World

We were ready...Unlike at other ports, we waited in the ship until our buses were ready. 80% of this new port had been funded by a Canadian mining company that has also done much to improve the local roads. (Unlike the Chinese company) Viking had arranged for every bus and van available to be used for all the planned excursions. Instead of the big tour buses, we were using mostly small vans. Ours could seat ten but we were only four plus our guide and driver. For safety, we caravanned with five other vans, at first along the paved road, and then on a windy, dirt road with all sorts of potholes. This highway of commerce had an occasional truck, otherwise, the only vehicles were our tour vans. But, the road was busy...busy with people walking both ways with items on their heads or balanced on a long stick on their shoulders. Even more common were bikes, with bundles of 8-foot sugar cane stalks or a pile of several large burlap bags of charcoal. This was being transported 12 kilometers from the forests into the city to stoke the fires for cooking. Everyone was moving just like a line of leaf-cutting ants.

The Road Was Busy with Foot and Bike Traffic

Along the sides of the road were many small huts made of bamboo poles with roofs made of travelers palms. They had dirt floors, most without doors or glass in their windows and no electricity or running water.

Roadsides Homes with no Electricity

Thirty minutes from town, we arrived at Domaine de la Cascade Nature Reserve where we started walking the beautiful path after an introduction by the manager. Some of the land is used by locals to grow rice. We did not spot the lemurs that Madagascar is famous for but we did see pepper plants and vanilla as well as lizards, snakes, chameleons, praying mantis and beautiful butterflies. We had started taking Malarone, malaria pills, and had on long sleeve shirts, mosquito spray ready, but not a mosquito was seen.

Our First View of the Garden

After the hike through the woods with guides pointing out the various plants, we were treated to a beautiful table full of fruit skewers, pizza, and beignets as we were entertained by a local band and dancers. Even though the food looked great, we had been warned about eating and drinking on shore, so most of us just had a bottle of soda. Mark had a banana cut right off the bunch. Tips for both the dancers and the food were generously given by our group.

Our sweet guide who called us his family...Mark uncle and Carol his mother, has become our penpal. He wrote that the French manager of the garden died tragically after the party he had for the garden employees to celebrate the success of our visit. Heartbreaking for the garden and all who knew this fine young man.

Local Food and Entertainment at the Garden

Mark Getting a Banana From the Beautiful Buffet

Very happy with the morning, we all loaded into the vans again, thanked the hosts as well as the two policemen who had stayed at the park to make sure we were safe and headed back to the ship for a quick lunch before taking the shuttle to the middle of town.

Driving into town down the bustling main street of Fort Dauphin...

As we got off the shuttle, we were swarmed by men, women, and children trying hard to sell us scarves, shells, bracelets and small lemur carvings…almost everything $1. Only around six cruise ships come per year, and ours was the last for the season. Making a sale was now or never. We felt bad about saying no to so many people, but if something was purchased, more vendors descended. It was easier to say no to those who wanted to trade one Madagascar dollar for one US dollar, especially when the trading ratio was 3500:1.

We managed to get a block away and while looking at a map, Venont, a part time teacher stopped to give us directions. He then asked if he could be our guide for the afternoon for $5. We agreed and off we went. He took us to see the old French Fort, the Hall of Justice, and back through the square. His presence made it easier to get through the vendors.

Carol and our guide Venont by the French Fort

We walked down the hill from the town center to the public hospital. The area consisted of several buildings that we at first thought were abandoned. In front of one were about 30 people waiting to be seen. This main clinic building was for young children and moms in the morning and teens in the afternoon. Healthcare is very expensive according to Venont.

Patients waiting for doctor appointments at hospital complex

Next stop was a church. Vento is Christian (plus traditional) along with about 40% of the country. The majority practice a traditional religion which pays respect to ancestors, believing they can help or hurt the living. Special honor is given to them before all special occasions.

Next was a private school, the most expensive and elite on the island and well maintained. The children were adorable, and so excited when we greeted them in French and then in English. Venont had a few gather for a picture, and immediately they all came running over. When Mark gave a thumbs up after taking the picture, they erupted in excited laughter and gave the thumbs up back. School is compulsory for ages 6-14 but we still saw many children in town and along the roadsides. Those in school go from 7:30-12 and 2-5:30 with a two-hour lunch break. The student/teacher ratio in primary school is 37/1.

Elite Private School

Public Primary School Above and Below

Moms with Children during School Lunch Break

Further down the road we could see the beautiful coastline. Several men were walking on what looked like very shallow coral reefs. They were catching small fish by hand.

Fishing by Hand

Down the hill toward the beach were some nice homes. We came to an abandoned hotel complex and can only guess that this attempt at a tourist business ran into trouble during the coup attempt in 1960 and more recent political unrest which probably scared off tourists. Venont wasn’t able to explain this although for the most part his English was good.

Nice Beach Homes

At the end of the road was a beautiful beach with rolling waves, clean sand, and clear turquoise water. A minute later Carol and Venant were bobbing in the waves. Further down was a group of workers from the ship also enjoying the day.

Beautiful Beach

When we gave Venont a tip, he thanked us, thanked God, and said now he could have a special dinner for his wife’s birthday that night. Carol asked if they sang a song when the birthday cake came, and he made up a little tune about his good fortune in meeting the wonderful Americans who made it such a good day for him and his wife. He then told us they sing the same crazy little birthday song we do. By the way…Venont has two wives, one in another town working as a nurse. Polygamy is allowed but not legal. He had to give a Zeboo each time he married. He currently has ten Zeboos since having cattle is safer than money in the bank.

Zeboos

As always, time ran out and we made our way back to the center of town to catch the last shuttle bus back to the boat where we enjoyed a filet mignon dinner grilled to order on the outside deck. We felt guilty living in such luxury after seeing the poverty of Madagascar, although they appeared happier than many of us who have so much. According to both guides, everyone is excited for their new president who already raised teacher salaries and has promised better roads, jobs, and no corruption. We too will be following the politics and hopefully progress of this beautiful country.