Wailing for Whaling…Albany Australia

Port of Albany

After two days of stormy seas confining seasick Mark to his quarters, it was a relief to be back on land, this time in Albany, at Western Australia’s southern tip. It was smooth sailing as the Viking Sun entered the rocky shores of the King George’s Sound. Instead of the creaking of the walls and the banging of the ship’s bow as it crashed into the waves and swells of the Australian Bight, all that could be heard was the mournful playing of a lone bagpiper standing on the rocks below the ANZAC Museum.

Bagpiper Below ANZAC Centre

Toby and Almut invited us to join them on a day trip in their rented car, so after watching our officers receive an official welcome from the Albany’s mayor dressed in old English costume and wig, we set off to see as much as we could fit into nine hours on land. It was the first time Viking had stopped in Albany and we even made front page of the local paper!

Albany was Britain’s first settlement in Western Australia, hastily founded as fears of  French colonization of this area intensified. Of course, the Brits again were not the first here. This land had been settled by the Menang Nagoon Aboriginal People for centuries, and they were happy to assist the newcomers, thinking they would only be here for a short time. As concerns of the French subsided, the city was used as a penal colony, and soon became known for agriculture, wood, and whaling. Farther north, Perth became the main center in Western Australia, but because of Albany’s deep-water port, it continued to thrive. Its most famous shipment turned out to be that of 41,000 Australian and New Zealand soldiers, who in 1915 were the final troops to be sent to Gallipoli on what Aussies thought would be a one week battle of glory with the Turks. After eight months, and horrendous casualties, the Allies retreated.

Field of Lights Along the Avenue of Honor to ANZAC Memorial

With Almut’s expert left-sided driving (her only mistake was activating the windshield wipers every time we needed to turn) we headed out of town. We first drove up the hill to the Avenue of Honor, passing the16,000 round glass lights on slender stems covered by rows of trees, honoring the fallen soldiers who had happily picked the wildflowers before boarding the transport ships. At the top of Mount Clarence was a statue to the ANZAC soldiers and a beautiful view of the city and sound.

Windmill Farm Across Bay

Located two miles out of town, the people of Albany traditionally have a pilgrimage on ANZAC day, walking the path to the mountain top to honor the fallen.

Albany has seen its ups and downs. In the 1890s, because of its deep port, it had been a center for the Eastern Australian Gold Rush. When this fizzled out, whaling again became a thriving industry and paid good wages to those who would take on the risks of the hunt as well as the bloody mess and smell of the rendering process.

View from the War Memorial

Carol Spotting a Whale

Last Whale Chaser

We toured the Whaling Museum, at the old Cheynes Whaling Station. It could process up to 23 whales a day, although its usual catch would be more like 5-6. Whale oil was used for everything from lighting to cosmetics and margarine. When synthetic oil from petroleum became more abundant and easier to work with, whaling became less profitable. Its fleet of three whale chasers was aging and the Greenpeace movement swayed public attitude against whaling. In 1978, the company saw the writing on the wall and the last of Australia’s whaling stations closed. (Yay!) This sent the town of Albany into a 10-year decline. Now, thanks to the Whaling Museum, the new 12 million dollar ANZAC Centre, and nearby Torndirrup National Park the city has made a comeback. We were the last of 13 cruise ships to visit the port this past summer tourist season.

Rock Bridge

The Gap at Torndirrup National Park

We drove the narrow road through Torndirrup National Park, winding up and down the hills of the rugged coast with its beautiful rocky cliffs and clean white sandy beaches contrasting with clear turquoise water. We stopped at several places including the see-through balcony overhanging, “The Gap”. Previously, this granite crevasse could only be visited by walking across the rugged boulder landscape by foot. Several deaths caused by sudden rogue waves sweeping visitors out to sea, mandated something safer, and the stainless-steel platform now allows visitors to safely look across and down into it. At that same stop, another walkway took us to the natural rock bridge, and further down the road, we walked across the boulders to hear a loud blowhole. We never saw any whale type spray, but then we also did not venture to the edge of the granite cliff for a look down to the water’s edge.

One of the Many Beaches at Torndirrup National Park

On our way back to town, we kept our eyes peeled for kangaroo. Just as we had given up, Almut slammed on the breaks, and sure enough, there was not just one, but many. All stopped their munching to straighten up and watch us watch them. It did not bother us, that it was a fenced-in kangaroo farm, we had seen them.

Local Paper

Our day of exploration ended with a stroll through this working-class town…admiring old stone buildings, a few sidewalk mosaics and many cute homes with roses. We wandered the grounds of the Old Goal and Museum, boarded a replica of the ship that brought the first European settlers, and read plaques about the Aboriginal People of the land and of course the ANZAC soldiers.

Mosaics Along Albany Sidewalks

As we strolled along the coastal path back to our ship, the gray skies suddenly exploded into vivid colors..ending another wonderful day...with more wonderful food!