Fremantle Australia

Having rounded the southwest corner of Australia at Albany, the Viking Sun continued up the west coast. Instead of the usual morning docking, at 5 PM we moored at Fremantle, also the port of Perth that we would visit the next day. This gave us a night out on the town, and practically the whole ship including the crew took advantage of this.

Downtown was a combination of elegant sandstone Victorian and Edwardian architecture, many intricate iron railings on the balconies and nothing over three stories tall. 

Downtown Freo's Wonderful Architecture

Busy Cafes and Microbreweries

Even on a Wednesday night, the outside cafes and Micro Breweries were bustling especially at the waterfront. This working-class city had a great vibe…artsy and clean with a laid-back feeling.

A Block Long Painted Warehouse

One month after Captain Fremantle proclaimed it a good place to build, the first English settlers came under Captain James Stirling. Both gave their names to many sites in both Fremantle and Perth. Both cities saw the need for a labor force so petitioned England to send convicts. Beginning in 1850, over 9,000 prisoners were transported over the next ten years. The original agreement was for England to send only prisoners with minor violations, but within a couple years, murderers, sex offenders, and political prisoners were being sent. 

Round House Jail

We made our way to the Round House which sat on a hill overlooking the waterfront. Constructed in 1830 as Fremantle’s original town prison, it later held many Aboriginal people who would not give up their land without a fight. Under the Round House was a tunnel giving whalers direct access to the town from the jetty.

Walking the Tunnel with Nancy and Steve

Minky G concert at Kidogo Arthouse

Nearby was the Kidogo Arthouse where many of our Viking shipmates had gathered to support Minky G, as she returned to her home here in Freo after nine months at sea, reuniting with her old band for a concert in this fun waterfront sandstone venue.

Bather's Beach from Round House

Changing Stalls at Waterfront

Statues on Freo's Waterfront

As darkness came over the city, we watched a bit of the Bulldog’s practicing Australian football under the big stadium lights before taking the last shuttle bus back to the ship for dinner and a show by a local Aboriginal group. Each dance told stories and taught lessons to the sound of the didgeridoo.

Football Practice

Aboriginal Dance Group

The next afternoon, after exploring Perth, the ferry dropped us back at the Fremantle port. We retraced our steps from the night before, this time in the daylight.

Fremantle Prison...UNESCO Heritage Site

After journeying across the city center, we came to the newer Fremantle Prison that closed in 1991 and now is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Solid and enormous, it was built over several years by the transported convicts. 

We went through the main entrance, and into several exhibits before it closed.  Outside the walls were small cottages for the superintendents and the guardsmen, some now a hostel.

On the way back to the ship, we spent our last Aussie money on candy bars, leaving only a few cents in our pockets. As we crossed the bridge to the wharf with just a minute to spare, we met Sujith Mohan, our General Manager returning with a clock for the pool area. He was excited to show Carol since she had requested this on her last survey. (they do read them!) 

Sujith and the New Pool Clock

We were treated by Chef Thomas to a Taste of Australia as we left the land down under…crocodile, kangaroo, lamb, wagyu beef, meat pies, shellfish, fish and chips, and even Vegemite, the thick spread that tastes like salty beef bouillon...and for dessert, lamingtons and yummy pavlovas. Oi-oi-oi!

Wailing for Whaling…Albany Australia

Port of Albany

After two days of stormy seas confining seasick Mark to his quarters, it was a relief to be back on land, this time in Albany, at Western Australia’s southern tip. It was smooth sailing as the Viking Sun entered the rocky shores of the King George’s Sound. Instead of the creaking of the walls and the banging of the ship’s bow as it crashed into the waves and swells of the Australian Bight, all that could be heard was the mournful playing of a lone bagpiper standing on the rocks below the ANZAC Museum.

Bagpiper Below ANZAC Centre

Toby and Almut invited us to join them on a day trip in their rented car, so after watching our officers receive an official welcome from the Albany’s mayor dressed in old English costume and wig, we set off to see as much as we could fit into nine hours on land. It was the first time Viking had stopped in Albany and we even made front page of the local paper!

Albany was Britain’s first settlement in Western Australia, hastily founded as fears of  French colonization of this area intensified. Of course, the Brits again were not the first here. This land had been settled by the Menang Nagoon Aboriginal People for centuries, and they were happy to assist the newcomers, thinking they would only be here for a short time. As concerns of the French subsided, the city was used as a penal colony, and soon became known for agriculture, wood, and whaling. Farther north, Perth became the main center in Western Australia, but because of Albany’s deep-water port, it continued to thrive. Its most famous shipment turned out to be that of 41,000 Australian and New Zealand soldiers, who in 1915 were the final troops to be sent to Gallipoli on what Aussies thought would be a one week battle of glory with the Turks. After eight months, and horrendous casualties, the Allies retreated.

Field of Lights Along the Avenue of Honor to ANZAC Memorial

With Almut’s expert left-sided driving (her only mistake was activating the windshield wipers every time we needed to turn) we headed out of town. We first drove up the hill to the Avenue of Honor, passing the16,000 round glass lights on slender stems covered by rows of trees, honoring the fallen soldiers who had happily picked the wildflowers before boarding the transport ships. At the top of Mount Clarence was a statue to the ANZAC soldiers and a beautiful view of the city and sound.

Windmill Farm Across Bay

Located two miles out of town, the people of Albany traditionally have a pilgrimage on ANZAC day, walking the path to the mountain top to honor the fallen.

Albany has seen its ups and downs. In the 1890s, because of its deep port, it had been a center for the Eastern Australian Gold Rush. When this fizzled out, whaling again became a thriving industry and paid good wages to those who would take on the risks of the hunt as well as the bloody mess and smell of the rendering process.

View from the War Memorial

Carol Spotting a Whale

Last Whale Chaser

We toured the Whaling Museum, at the old Cheynes Whaling Station. It could process up to 23 whales a day, although its usual catch would be more like 5-6. Whale oil was used for everything from lighting to cosmetics and margarine. When synthetic oil from petroleum became more abundant and easier to work with, whaling became less profitable. Its fleet of three whale chasers was aging and the Greenpeace movement swayed public attitude against whaling. In 1978, the company saw the writing on the wall and the last of Australia’s whaling stations closed. (Yay!) This sent the town of Albany into a 10-year decline. Now, thanks to the Whaling Museum, the new 12 million dollar ANZAC Centre, and nearby Torndirrup National Park the city has made a comeback. We were the last of 13 cruise ships to visit the port this past summer tourist season.

Rock Bridge

The Gap at Torndirrup National Park

We drove the narrow road through Torndirrup National Park, winding up and down the hills of the rugged coast with its beautiful rocky cliffs and clean white sandy beaches contrasting with clear turquoise water. We stopped at several places including the see-through balcony overhanging, “The Gap”. Previously, this granite crevasse could only be visited by walking across the rugged boulder landscape by foot. Several deaths caused by sudden rogue waves sweeping visitors out to sea, mandated something safer, and the stainless-steel platform now allows visitors to safely look across and down into it. At that same stop, another walkway took us to the natural rock bridge, and further down the road, we walked across the boulders to hear a loud blowhole. We never saw any whale type spray, but then we also did not venture to the edge of the granite cliff for a look down to the water’s edge.

One of the Many Beaches at Torndirrup National Park

On our way back to town, we kept our eyes peeled for kangaroo. Just as we had given up, Almut slammed on the breaks, and sure enough, there was not just one, but many. All stopped their munching to straighten up and watch us watch them. It did not bother us, that it was a fenced-in kangaroo farm, we had seen them.

Local Paper

Our day of exploration ended with a stroll through this working-class town…admiring old stone buildings, a few sidewalk mosaics and many cute homes with roses. We wandered the grounds of the Old Goal and Museum, boarded a replica of the ship that brought the first European settlers, and read plaques about the Aboriginal People of the land and of course the ANZAC soldiers.

Mosaics Along Albany Sidewalks

As we strolled along the coastal path back to our ship, the gray skies suddenly exploded into vivid colors..ending another wonderful day...with more wonderful food!

                                                         

Adelaide...a "City of Churches"...a "City within a Park"

Adelaide, the state of South Australia’s capital was our next stop, but before we begin, a few points of interest…  

The Stranded Viking Sky on Norway's Coast

First, one of our sister ships, the Viking Star, made the news today. Last night, while sailing along the Norwegian Fjords on its Northern-lights cruise, the one Phil and Kathie (Carol’s sister) took last month, its four engines failed, and as it rocked back and forth in a violent storm nearing the jagged shoreline, the captain called to abandon ship. Helicopters began airlifting people off 30 at a time, and as of now about one-fourth of the 900 passengers have been removed. The Sky regained the use of one engine and continues to remove passengers as it limps in for repairs.

Secondly, Australia is being hit by two cyclones simultaneously, one to the north and one to the west.
Currently, we are in the south crossing the "Great Australian Bight" a 720 mile bay known for towering oceanside cliffs, calving grounds for the southern right whales and sea lions, and rough waters. Our ship is sailing as fast as it can away from another storm area with 30 foot waves. Outside decks, the pool, and the weight room have been closed, and ginger and green apples are once again available to all who need them, and Mark once again did.

With all this happening… we’ll tell a bit of Adelaide’s “stormy” past. All the first Australian colonies had a penal past and were having problems. So, someone decided it was time to begin a new venture without convicts as its forefathers. That person was Edward Wakefield, who came up with this plan while sitting in prison for running off at the age of 31 with a 15-year-old heiress. Over his lifetime, he would be in and out of various business ventures, both in Adelaide, New Zealand, and later back in England. Is that ironic or what, that a man who made his money womanizing, would name the city after King George IV’s wife? Anyway, Adelaide was colonized as a free colony in 1836. The surveyor for this planned city, William Light, was given two months to come up with a place and to plot its streets and parks, which he did. Founded on religious tolerance, it was soon nicknamed the "City of Churches" due to the many faiths represented.

Fountain using all Reclaimed Water
Adelaide is Proud of its Water and Green Electricity 

One of the Many Cathedrals 
in this "City of Churches"

Downtown was an hour from the port so Viking gave us a free day pass to use the trains and buses throughout the city.

We took the included bus tour into downtown Adelaide and after hopping off for what was to be a 45-minute stop, tipped the guide and took off on our own, skipping the second stop on the tour so we’d have more time in the city.

Note the Emu and Kangaroo
on the Adelaide Arcade

Adelaide Arcade's Ornate Interior

Rundle Street Statues

Rundle Street, a pedestrian mall had it all…street musicians, side malls, pubs, restaurants, the ornate Adelaide Arcade, and even a Target. We loved the unique sculptures and leaf people that we later saw all around the city.

Aussie's Favorite Chocolate Shop 

Leaf People All Over the City

We saw our Viking Chefs at the Adelaide Market

Several blocks to the north were the government buildings…the Governor’s mansion (the current governor is a Vietnamese immigrant), WWI War Memorial, and three great museums. The South Australian Museum included several floors dedicated to the Aboriginal Australians.

Their history had been a combination of the horrors experienced by Native Americans and African Americans. By the time Europeans arrived in Australia, the Aboriginal People who had migrated from Africa, had been here for 35,000-65,000 years. After helping the settlers acclimate, their land was taken and due to imported diseases and alcohol, extermination, war and displacement, the population dropped significantly. They were finally given the right to vote in 1962 and equal citizenship in 1967, yet their children were taken away to “civilize” them up until 1972. In 2008, the prime minister issued an official apology to the “stolen generation”. Today most live in or nearby cities in the west and north in terrible conditions. They are struggling with poverty, unemployment, high crime and alcoholism. Some work on cattle ranches and about 9% still live off the land hunting and gathering “bush tucker”. They are experts at seeking out water in seemingly uninhabitable lands.

South Australian Museum and Parliament

At the museum we saw an Aboriginal School’s doors that had been painted with the traditional dot paintings that tell stories. Dreamtime is their term for describing creation, when the Ancestral Spirits progressed over the land creating life and important geographical formations and sites. One of their most sacred is the Rock of Uluru, Ayers Rock, a huge granite monolith in the Outback Desert which in 1985 was returned to the Aboriginal People.

Tradition Aboriginal Dot Art on School Doors

Although they make up only 3% of Australia’s population, the Aboriginal flag is now flown next to the Australian and state flags at all governmental buildings. Public ceremonies begin by recognizing the Indigenous Australians of the area. Some of our guides began our tours with this acknowledgment. Their traditions that were once banned are now being taught as they try to gain back their identity, self-worth, and pride.

Next was the Migration Museum where we learned Australia’s methods once used to prevent blacks and Asians from entering the country. If a nonwhite fulfilled all the criteria to enter, they were given a 50-word test in a foreign language not known to them, such as Hungarian which of course they would fail. These obstacles persisted well into the mid-20^th century because Australians wanted Australia to remain white… just as some want America to “remain” a white Christian nation, even though neither country started out that way. An event was taking place in the Museum’s outer courtyard to celebrate the city’s newest immigrants mostly from the Middle East…children and adults in their native dress taking part in a day full of activities with music, food, and speeches.

Celebrating Recent Immigrants at the Migration Museum

Recent Immigrants by Statue of First
Immigrants 

At the neighboring art museum, modern art was intermingled with Aboriginal and classical art… beautiful, interesting, strange, and thought-provoking, with the works of art displayed in such unusual ways.

Such Unique Arrangement

Interior of the State Library

String Art Filled a Whole Room

Down the street we entered the Botanical Gardens, part of the green space that William Light had planned for his city. The green space surrounding the town was to be wide enough that an enemy cannonball could not cross it. As far as we know, no cannon balls ever tried. This also earned Adelaide the nickname "City within a Park".

Enjoying the Various Wine Bouquets

In the Botanical Gardens was the National Wine Center telling about Australia's long wine producing history dating back to the first European voyages when the vines were brought from France and South Africa. Thousands of bottles of wine were kept there under perfect conditions. We smelled aromas of the different wines, noting the citrus, peach, peppery, or flowery smells of the different grapes. Despite this experience, our wine taste buds are still not very discerning.

Where's Carol???

A Tree Full of Fruit Bats

It was Saturday, and as we walked along the Torres River through town we saw how many Adelaidians spend a beautiful day. Many of the immigrants from the museum event were picnicking under trees along the banks, while other Aussies were floating down the river in big tubes while oversampling the beers and wines of South Australia.

And thousands were on their way to the Oval to watch their favorite state football team. Each of Australia’s six states has two teams in the “AFL”. According to the friendly railway worker their football, which has four goalposts, is neither soccer, rugby, or American football, but a hybrid of all three and more.

A River of Fans

It was fun to watch the river of fans, many in red, blue and gold, flowing over the walking bridge to the stadium. We still don’t understand the sport, but we can appreciate their love of the game…    Aussie-Aussie-Aussie…Oi-Oi-Oi!

      Just for fun we're including pictures of the charming seaside town of Gleneig that we missed...

...and more amazing food courtesy of  Chef Wyann at the Chef's Table

          ...and yes...80 days at sea and thankfully still in love... at the Wine Center's Wedding Garden